Kundan vs Polki vs Jadau: What's the Difference?
Kundan, Polki and Jadau are often used as if they mean the same thing. Here is what each word actually refers to, how to tell them apart, and which suits which occasion.
If you have shopped for Indian jewellery, you have seen the words Kundan, Polki and Jadau used almost interchangeably. They are related, but they are not the same thing. One is a technique, one is a kind of stone, and one is a way of setting. Knowing which is which makes it much easier to choose a piece — and to know what you are paying for.
Jadau: the technique
Jadau is the oldest of the three words and the broadest. It describes a way of making jewellery in which stones are pressed into a softened metal frame by hand, with no prongs or claws holding them. The craft is closely associated with Rajasthan and Gujarat, and it reached its height in the royal courts.
A Jadau piece is built in stages by different artisans: one shapes the frame, one sets the stones, and one finishes the back, often with enamel. So "Jadau" tells you how a piece was made, not what it is set with.
Kundan: the setting
Kundan refers to the setting itself. Traditionally, thin strips of highly refined gold foil are packed around each stone to hold it in its frame. The stones are usually glass or gemstones, cut flat and backed with foil so they catch the light.
That is where Kundan jewellery gets its look: smooth, glossy stones with a soft glow, each outlined in gold. It is the look most people picture when they think of a traditional bridal set.
Polki: the stone
Polki is an uncut diamond — a natural diamond in its raw, flat form, without the facets of a modern brilliant cut. Polki stones are usually set using the Kundan method, which is one reason the two words get mixed up.
The difference shows in the sparkle. Polki has an irregular, slightly smoky shine, and no two stones are the same shape. Kundan is more even and glassy.
Where Meenakari fits
Turn a traditional piece over and you will often find the back painted in coloured enamel. That is Meenakari. It began as a way of protecting the gold on the reverse and became a decoration in its own right — some pieces are made to be worn either way round.
How to tell them apart
- Shine: Kundan is smooth and glossy. Polki glints unevenly, like light on water.
- Shape: Kundan stones are regular. Polki stones are irregular, because they follow the natural stone.
- Price: fine Polki costs far more, because it is diamond. Kundan-style pieces are much more accessible.
A note on Kundan-style and Polki-style jewellery
Most jewellery sold today as Kundan or Polki — including fashion and gold-plated pieces — recreates these looks with glass or simulated stones on a plated base. That is what makes a full bridal look affordable, and a well-made piece is very hard to tell apart at arm's length. What matters is that the listing is honest about it: the material is stated on every piece in our collection, so check it before you order.
Which should you choose?
- For a bride or a close family wedding, a Kundan choker or long set gives the classic look and photographs beautifully.
- For a reception or sangeet, Polki styles pair well with pastel and contemporary outfits.
- For festivals and smaller functions, a pair of Kundan earrings or a single statement ring is enough.
Whichever you choose, keep it dry and store it on its own — see our jewellery care guide.